Saturday, September 6, 2008

Besancon Arrival

samedi le 30 août:

Well up early and all packed for us (Wendy, Shirley and I) to get to the train station to catch the TGV to Besancon – not to repeat our journey walking with luggage we –caught a taxi to the Gare de Lyon – 5 Euros each! Then proceeded to try and find our way around the station. It is massive, tried to take a photo but so huge couldn’t get a decent one. For a train station with many TGV (train grand vitesse) at a time possibly there it is remarkably quiet, you can’t hear them coming in or leaving. Being very aware of security at the station we watched our luggage carefully. There are also armed soldiers, I think that is what they are as they wear fatigues, in many tourist and busy places. I saw them at the Eiffel tower and a few other heavily populated areas. I presume to detect thieves and probably terrorists – although that has only just occurred now!
Shirley headed off to Cluny, Wendy and I then tried to find our platform, which was down a level and along quite a way. The cost of the ticket from Paris to Besançon was 43 Euros- About 90 dollars. Not that cheap really – It is only 400 km! When you get your ticket you have choice of first or second class – naturally second class! You need to “composter” your ticket, which means get it authorised and stamped as you get on.
We found our platform then started to head to our carriage we were in carriage 17 after all the first class carriages – it went for a long way down the platform. The trains are huge.
Departure time 10:28 am, a 2:30 min ride.
On our way – 300km an hour, the trains can go 500km but for general passenger travel it sticks to 300. Amazingly it doesn’t feel fast, except if you watch cars you over take them!

The countryside was green and you go past all these villages which are pretty much bounded by walls, from the time you needed to protect yourself.

Arrival in Besançon at 12h57. It was hot – 30 degrees at least. Discovered it is illegal to kiss on a train – not sure if still true! Off the train and struggled with cases up the stairs to the station. We were met by Monsieur Daboval, the head of all the schools in his cluster. Amazingly he picked out the 2 kiwis - when asked how, he responded we were 2 women travelling together. Into the car and a very quick trip to the Lycee (high school) to get key for apartment then down to the other school site, where the kindy, primary and college are all located.
The apartment is in one of the main school buildings, ground floor and first impressions are it is ok. There is 1 bedroom –quite large and a sitting room (where I am sleeping), a bathroom - with a bath and shower over top, washing machine, sink, a separate toilet and a kitchen. The kitchen has on oven and rings, a smaller oven that sort of looks like an ancient microwave, small fridge, sink (French style), table and chairs.

We had been here about 5 minutes and one of the English teachers arrived –Genevieve, she brought some lunch for us, quiche and fruit. After about another 45 minutes, Jean François arrived. We were then taken into town and shown the sights, it was probably about 3pm and it was incredibly busy. People everywhere, the nice weather helped bring them out. Canoeing on the Doubs, no swimming though – I asked why, “It is illegal to wear your bathing suit in public”! You wouldn’t swim in the river though as I could see when I got close – brownish colour to the water!
We continued our walking tour through little roads and old building, everywhere was things of interest. Besançon has a really rich history with the wars, as it is so close to German and Swiss borders. It also has had to deal with other regions of France trying to take it over.
The most famous landmark is the Citadelle which sits high upon the hill and can see everywhere 11 hectares. It is a 17th century masterpiece designed by Vauban for Louis XIV who lived here. Besançon is also famous along with Victor Hugo (writer Les Miserables etc)
Victor-Marie Hugo (February 26, 1802May 22, 1885) was a French poet, playwright, novelist, essayist, visual artist, statesman, human rights activist and perhaps the most influential exponent of the Romantic movement in France.
In France, Hugo's literary reputation rests primarily on his poetic and dramatic output and only secondarily on his novels. Among many volumes of poetry, Les Contemplations and La Légende des siècles stand particularly high in critical esteem, and Hugo is sometimes identified as the greatest French poet. Outside France, his best-known works are the novels Les Misérables and Notre-Dame de Paris (sometimes translated into English as The Hunchback of Notre Dame).
The Lumieres brothers, “The Lumières held their first private screening of projected motion pictures March 22, 1895.[3] Their first public screening of movies at which admission was charged was held on December 28, 1895” courtesy of Wikipedia.
The first orchestra pit was created here along with the first ever Museum. It is also very well known for clockmaking and microchips.
Found all this out on our tour which continued till 7 pm. It was so hot and people just were in town, it is the thing to do, go and sit in town on Saturday. Just about everything is shut Sunday so makes it attractive for town on Saturday. We met Mariette (another English teacher I think), she made it very clear not to speak any French at all when dealing with the students!

The roofs are very steep in all the old buildings – this allows snow not to build up!
All cars are quite small, haven’t seen an SUV or 4 wheel drive at all – apparently there is an extra tax on these type of vehicles. Roller garage doors on all the windows – even up high, looks ugly but stops broken windows and security – but still trying to work out why they are needed above 3 or 4 storeys?

Genevieve and Jean Francois were taking us out to dinner, we got dropped off at 7pm to get ready for 8pm. Dinner was however booked in at 9pm, but you go and have drinks first. It was a rush to get ready, had first shower – eekk! the water goes everywhere, just as well that I am short as I just fit underneath! We still had no groceries or anything.
Before we knew it we were back in town and meeting at the restaurant 1802 Bisontine (Year Victor Hugo was born and what you call people from Besançon)
We met Daniel and Regine ( Daniel head of a Lycee near Switzerland, and Regine a maths teacher at the Lycee) and Laurence (Spanish teacher) arrived a bit later. It was very difficult as I basically couldn’t say anything – Daniel and Regine didn’t speak English, and I felt like a 3rd wheel. They were incredibly kind but it was very hard and I was tired.
We sat outside ona beautiful evening.
When it came to ordering wasn’t sure what to do – so sort of went with the flow and people ordered the “menu” which was a 3 course meal for 22 Euros, with 2 choices each course. I had:
Terrine of Goose Liver - a new experience, forced it down!
Rabbit - weird since we have so many at home – was very nice and tasted just like chicken
Charlotte – strawberries and white chocolate with sponge fingers –delicious!

Things to note: You don’t put your hands under the table during dinner, apparently this is so no playing around under table! Maybe feet should be above too then!

Conversation continued and so did the time – a couple of things to note, there was a large table – 20 or so – with their children at the restaurant, obviously a special occasion, but Regine and others not impressed children there that late. An accident occurred and 1 boy about 4, cut his forehead badly and they had to get the ambulance – probably about 10:45. At the same table there was also a very pregnant lady, nearly due I would say, but Regine disgusted her belly was touching the table – if it wasn’t her arms would never have reached! How interesting, the French are very proper! Jean Francois reckoned he had never seen someone that big out in public before – I guess they stay at home – very old fashioned idea!
– Not sure whether to pay or not, or offer to pay – very dicey – I just watched Wendy and she didn’t know either so we just sat! It was a great welcome and nice way to see city.
12:30 and there was movement to go home!

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